Higginson Park borders the Thames. It's 23 acres of lawns, flower beds and river views includes a huge playground where most of the town's children spend time each week.
Strolling by the river is one of Marlow's greatest pleasures... The Thames Path National Trail passes through Marlow en-route from the Cotswalds to London. I started my hike heading away from the bridge, through the meadows across from the 12th century Bisham Abbey on the opposite bank, now the home of the National Sports Centre..the training centre for England's elite athletes. I get to see it twice this day on each side of the river...on my walk I see other hikers, fishermen casting lines, boaters and kayakers along the way. My first stop is at Temple Lock, just in time to see a boat passing through. My intention was to stop there, then return to Marlow; however, the sun was shining, the walking easy albeit muddy and the sights refreshing, with the river on one side,
fields of sheep, cattle and various and sundry animals gently grazing on the other.
Beyond the lock and over a footbridge, through another meadow to another footbridge, I reached Hurley Lock, a busy marina area where dozens of boats were moored, awaiting weekend visitors. Beyond the lock I returned to the river, crossed yet another footbridge, along a narrow lane, I arrived at the pretty little village of Hurley. I had visited this area once before and was happy to return. By tiny village, I mean 1 little store... and two pubs, the Risin' Sun and Ye Olde Bell Inn. Not wanting to be disrespectful, I chose to visit both pubs! Ye Olde Bell Inn dates back to the 1100s. During WW II, American troops were stationed nearby. Winston Churchill and General Dwight Eisenhower met at this very inn. I felt an immense sense of history as I enjoyed this particular pub, with its low, dark beams, beautiful gardens and surroundings. It is a destination pub for weekend escapes for thousands each year. On this particular day, I was one of four enjoying its hospitality.
As I departed, I somehow missed the intended footpath, proceeded as if I knew what I was doing and never did find the appropriate footbridge. Before I knew it, I was hiking parallel to but not alongside the Thames. I walked passed through a kissing gate, a caravan park and farmers fields, always believing that the river was just out of view. Passing alongside farmers' fields, I eventually came to the village of Temple. Knowing that I was trudging along in the right direction I eventually passed
Bisham Abbey once again, only this time up close. It always amazes me to see these structures not only still standing but still being used as they were originally intended. Once past the Abbey, I knew that heading home was a matter of passing by the training centre, passing over the famous Marlow bridge and picking the correct pathway to get me back to my daughter's house.
That same footpath shows another possibility for another day... Marlow to Bourne End...a 6 mile walk which starts near the Two Brewers Pub (under renovation due to a fire), one of my favourite pubs! The Thames Path offers wonderful walks which are loaded with history...to follow that path is to pass by Quarry Wood, said to be Kenneth Grahame's inspiration for The Wild Wood in, "Wind in
the Willows".
Home tired and muddy from my excursion, I wonder if traipsing through NCC paths in the Greater Ottawa region will ever provide such historical significance... That's where I'll be wandering soon!
Friday, October 18, 2013
Monday, October 14, 2013
Once, The Musical
Every once in a while a special event takes place that requires writing about. This past Saturday, along with my daughter and her husband, Marion and I headed into London following a lazy Saturday in Marlow, except for our granddaughter Keira, whose life is presently a blend of school, extracurricular activities and birthday parties!
We left for London, by car just after 3:00 in the afternoon. Traffic around and in London is crazy at the best of times. From Marlow it's mostly six lanes all the way, past Heathrow, then in to the centre of the city. It gets very slow once into the suburbs. Because we were heading to the Phoenix Theatre, we needed to travel through the fashion district, past Harrods, St. James Palace, the home of Prince Charles and Camilla, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly to Charing Cross. Our parking was in an underground in the heart of Chinatown...more about that later, once I get over the shock. Coming to the surface we found ourselves immersed in a multicultural throng of thousands doing exactly what we were doing, seeing the sites, arriving in time for pre theatre dinner and grabbing a little time for some shopping. Once through Chinatown, we arrived at Picadilly Circus...how aptly named! In the midst of a collection of costumed revellers, we found The M & M Store, a destination stop apparently on any trip to this city...4 stories high, filled with thousands of shoppers and M&Ms of every imaginable colour and matching clothes, toys and games to go along with each colour. I can't even imagine what gross sales per day would be like!
After wondering for awhile and checking menus as we meandered, we settled on a tiny Italian restaurant near the theatre; the place was packed, the menu excellent and the wine list very adequate. Amidst the hustle and bustle we enjoyed great service and equally great food.
From there, directly to the theatre, The Phoenix...a neoclassical building, opened in 1930. It seats about 1050 people in a very steep three level arrangement. Our seats were in the third level very high, but also very close to the stage. Prior to the opening, the set, which is like an Irish pub is an open working bar. My son-in-law Mike and I could not resist the opportunity to head to the stage...where audience and cast/musicians mix in an informal warmup for the musical. Like a hootenanny from the
sixties, it's a magic start to the evening. As the warmup concludes, theatre goers head back to their
seats, as the real acting begins.
Based on a 2006 independent movie of the same name, Once tells the story of an Irish busker who meets a Czech girl. Both musicians, their love for each other grows through the songs they write for each other. On a minimalist set, the other actors who also double as the musicians sit on chairs on either side of the set when not actively participating.
The winner of Tonys for Best New Musical, Best Director, Best Set, suffice to say, I can't wait to travel to Toronto in the November/December time frame when this outstanding musical plays at the Royal Alex Theatre. It is a must see!
Part of the excitement of London theatre is the pouring of theatre goers onto the streets...as most shows end approximately at the same time. Literally thousands appear at the same time, making the walk back to that parking garage in Chinatown like moving on a conveyer belt...the charge for parking for the six hours that we were there, £36.00 ($61.20 Cdn). I'll never complain about $9.00 at the National Arts Centre again! Was it worth it? Every pence!
The drive home, through the bright lights of London, past the glamorous lights of Harrods made the night out magical!
In less than an hour, we were back in the peaceful town of Marlow!
We left for London, by car just after 3:00 in the afternoon. Traffic around and in London is crazy at the best of times. From Marlow it's mostly six lanes all the way, past Heathrow, then in to the centre of the city. It gets very slow once into the suburbs. Because we were heading to the Phoenix Theatre, we needed to travel through the fashion district, past Harrods, St. James Palace, the home of Prince Charles and Camilla, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly to Charing Cross. Our parking was in an underground in the heart of Chinatown...more about that later, once I get over the shock. Coming to the surface we found ourselves immersed in a multicultural throng of thousands doing exactly what we were doing, seeing the sites, arriving in time for pre theatre dinner and grabbing a little time for some shopping. Once through Chinatown, we arrived at Picadilly Circus...how aptly named! In the midst of a collection of costumed revellers, we found The M & M Store, a destination stop apparently on any trip to this city...4 stories high, filled with thousands of shoppers and M&Ms of every imaginable colour and matching clothes, toys and games to go along with each colour. I can't even imagine what gross sales per day would be like!
After wondering for awhile and checking menus as we meandered, we settled on a tiny Italian restaurant near the theatre; the place was packed, the menu excellent and the wine list very adequate. Amidst the hustle and bustle we enjoyed great service and equally great food.
From there, directly to the theatre, The Phoenix...a neoclassical building, opened in 1930. It seats about 1050 people in a very steep three level arrangement. Our seats were in the third level very high, but also very close to the stage. Prior to the opening, the set, which is like an Irish pub is an open working bar. My son-in-law Mike and I could not resist the opportunity to head to the stage...where audience and cast/musicians mix in an informal warmup for the musical. Like a hootenanny from the
sixties, it's a magic start to the evening. As the warmup concludes, theatre goers head back to their
seats, as the real acting begins.
Based on a 2006 independent movie of the same name, Once tells the story of an Irish busker who meets a Czech girl. Both musicians, their love for each other grows through the songs they write for each other. On a minimalist set, the other actors who also double as the musicians sit on chairs on either side of the set when not actively participating.
The winner of Tonys for Best New Musical, Best Director, Best Set, suffice to say, I can't wait to travel to Toronto in the November/December time frame when this outstanding musical plays at the Royal Alex Theatre. It is a must see!
Part of the excitement of London theatre is the pouring of theatre goers onto the streets...as most shows end approximately at the same time. Literally thousands appear at the same time, making the walk back to that parking garage in Chinatown like moving on a conveyer belt...the charge for parking for the six hours that we were there, £36.00 ($61.20 Cdn). I'll never complain about $9.00 at the National Arts Centre again! Was it worth it? Every pence!
The drive home, through the bright lights of London, past the glamorous lights of Harrods made the night out magical!
In less than an hour, we were back in the peaceful town of Marlow!
Friday, October 11, 2013
Marvellous Marlow
It is easy to avoid blogging when one is visiting family. There is so much to do, so much to catch up on, so much time to spend with grandchildren...
Since our arrival in Marlow, that's how much of our time has been spent. It has also been spent wandering Marlow, without doubt one of the loveliest locations on the River Thames. Situated between Windsor and Henley, this medieval town sets elegant Georgian buildings against the wonderful woodlands of Buckinghamshire's Chiltern Hills...one can literally expect to see Robin Hood and friends hiding behind trees as we travel the area. It is both prosperous and lively, it's streets filled with interesting shops, wine bars and pubs which add so much to Marlow's charm.
The town's main landmark is a beautiful suspension bridge, which spans the Thames, completed in 1832 to designs by William Tierney Clark, who also designed the bridge across the Danube near where our Viking Bragi was docked at the start if this journey.
The two main streets for shops are High Street and West Street. The finest building, just around the corner from our daughter's house is Marlow Place, built in 1721.
Through the 18th and early 19th centuries, Marlow emerged as a fashionable riverside resort attracting a variety of well known types, including Thomas Love Peacock, Jerome K Jerome and T S Eliot. I walk past the house daily, where the poet Shelley and his wife Mary lived. I am told that Mary finished her Gothic masterpiece, Frankenstein while living here in Marlow.
I get to walk these wonderful Streets on a daily basis as I accompany my 7 year old granddaughter to her school. It is just over a mile trek each way, so doing that twice a day is giving me a t least 4 miles a day before I head off to explore.
Riverside walks are a very common past time. In my next posting, I'll describe the wonderful walk from our grand children's favourite park, Higginson Park to Temple Lock. Part of the Thames Path National Trail, the path actually stretches from the Cotswalds to London.
Since our arrival in Marlow, that's how much of our time has been spent. It has also been spent wandering Marlow, without doubt one of the loveliest locations on the River Thames. Situated between Windsor and Henley, this medieval town sets elegant Georgian buildings against the wonderful woodlands of Buckinghamshire's Chiltern Hills...one can literally expect to see Robin Hood and friends hiding behind trees as we travel the area. It is both prosperous and lively, it's streets filled with interesting shops, wine bars and pubs which add so much to Marlow's charm.
The town's main landmark is a beautiful suspension bridge, which spans the Thames, completed in 1832 to designs by William Tierney Clark, who also designed the bridge across the Danube near where our Viking Bragi was docked at the start if this journey.
The two main streets for shops are High Street and West Street. The finest building, just around the corner from our daughter's house is Marlow Place, built in 1721.
Through the 18th and early 19th centuries, Marlow emerged as a fashionable riverside resort attracting a variety of well known types, including Thomas Love Peacock, Jerome K Jerome and T S Eliot. I walk past the house daily, where the poet Shelley and his wife Mary lived. I am told that Mary finished her Gothic masterpiece, Frankenstein while living here in Marlow.
I get to walk these wonderful Streets on a daily basis as I accompany my 7 year old granddaughter to her school. It is just over a mile trek each way, so doing that twice a day is giving me a t least 4 miles a day before I head off to explore.
Riverside walks are a very common past time. In my next posting, I'll describe the wonderful walk from our grand children's favourite park, Higginson Park to Temple Lock. Part of the Thames Path National Trail, the path actually stretches from the Cotswalds to London.
Monday, October 7, 2013
Coming to a Crashing Conclusion!
Cruising down the river, in the middle of the night, somewhere around 3:00 AM, sound asleep after an evening of learning about Cologne beers and the music of Cologne, our adventure came to a screeching, crashing halt. Either by an error in judgement or perhaps a brief moment of snoozing...the 2nd captain directed the bow of the beautiful Viling Bragi directly into an abutment of a very solid bridge...Being mid-ship, the damage in our suite was basically limited to the shocking disturbance, the haranguing sound of the breaking of glasses, the emptying of the refrigerator and the clearing of everything and anything that was on any of the counters. Others were not so lucky! In the dining room, over 50% of the china and glassware was ruined! Potted plants were smashed. Did I mention that once the Bragi slammed into the abutment, the ship following was unable to avoid our Bragi, so schmucked in the rear as well! When all was said and done and with a ten hour delay for police investigation, river authority inquiry, cruise company investigation and the determination as to whether the boat was seaworthy, permission was finally granted for us to proceed...with an escort out of Germany! While the captain spoke to us twice about the 'situation', we never did hear about the discipline for those in charge at the time of the collision. We did know that there was significant damage in the thousands of dollars damage...but we were able to continue!
Beyond the physical damage...the damage to Viking River Cruises reputation took a serious hit as well. For me, it was being told that because of the delays, the Bragi was heading directly to Amsterdam, meaning that our stop at Kinderdijk, the World Heritage site, renowned for its windmills would be missed...that was so disappointing. All my life, since reading about wooden shoes and windmills, that was my dream, to see those sites in person. While Viking staff apologized for the mishap, unfortunately, knowing what I missed takes away from all that we saw.
Putting that behind us, the rest of the cruise, arriving at 2:00 AM was anti-climactic, much of the onboard chatter more about the 'event' rather than the smooth sailing into Amsterdam, along the Rhine and the Utrecht Canal.
Disembarking was a smooth operation. We were up at 3:30 AM, packed, showered, bags in he hall by 5:00 AM, breakfast and on the bus by 5:45...then off to Amsterdam Airport. Check-in, clearing
Customs, was like clockwork. With two hours to spare, sleep seemed to be the only appropriate thing to do.
Before we knew it, it was boarding time, first a flight to Frankfurt, and with little time to spare, a quick farewell to our travel partners, Garnet & Shirley, Pam & Jim...as we rushed to catch a flight to London-Heathrow to visit our daughter, her husband and two delightful grandchildren.
Finishing the first leg of our one month journey on Marion's birthday, heading to see our family in England, was just too good to be true.
Despite our final day experience, travelling with Garnet & Shirley and Pam & Jim enriched our experience four fold! Each evening we joined together at the dining room table, laughed and reflected on the day and regularly drank toasts to the moment...and there were so many moments to celebrate! All we can hope is that another opportunity comes along...
And now, time to focus on the grandchildren !
Beyond the physical damage...the damage to Viking River Cruises reputation took a serious hit as well. For me, it was being told that because of the delays, the Bragi was heading directly to Amsterdam, meaning that our stop at Kinderdijk, the World Heritage site, renowned for its windmills would be missed...that was so disappointing. All my life, since reading about wooden shoes and windmills, that was my dream, to see those sites in person. While Viking staff apologized for the mishap, unfortunately, knowing what I missed takes away from all that we saw.
Putting that behind us, the rest of the cruise, arriving at 2:00 AM was anti-climactic, much of the onboard chatter more about the 'event' rather than the smooth sailing into Amsterdam, along the Rhine and the Utrecht Canal.
Disembarking was a smooth operation. We were up at 3:30 AM, packed, showered, bags in he hall by 5:00 AM, breakfast and on the bus by 5:45...then off to Amsterdam Airport. Check-in, clearing
Customs, was like clockwork. With two hours to spare, sleep seemed to be the only appropriate thing to do.
Before we knew it, it was boarding time, first a flight to Frankfurt, and with little time to spare, a quick farewell to our travel partners, Garnet & Shirley, Pam & Jim...as we rushed to catch a flight to London-Heathrow to visit our daughter, her husband and two delightful grandchildren.
Finishing the first leg of our one month journey on Marion's birthday, heading to see our family in England, was just too good to be true.
Despite our final day experience, travelling with Garnet & Shirley and Pam & Jim enriched our experience four fold! Each evening we joined together at the dining room table, laughed and reflected on the day and regularly drank toasts to the moment...and there were so many moments to celebrate! All we can hope is that another opportunity comes along...
And now, time to focus on the grandchildren !
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Cosmopolitan Cologne
It was an early morning into Cologne. For the first time on this journey, our arrival was overcast and rainy. As has been the practice, we were met by a local guide who welcomed us enthusiastically to 'her' city! Our tour led us past several 'brauhaus's' along the way. Luckily, I have a good sense of direction...found them all later in the afternoon. Pictures don't suffice for this structure, The Dom , twin spires that require 521 steps just to climb to the base of the spire, a cathedral that took 600 years to complete; we were amongst the regular 30,000 visitors per day. Dark, no heat, massive stained glass windows, red-robed members of the Swiss Guard, overwhelming to say the least. While we spent approximately 90 minutes at the cathedral, one could literally spend days there.
Our afternoon consisted of free time touring through a massive shopping mall area. My son will appreciate that standing opposite each other were two stores...SportsCheck and Sposstadt Sports. There was one sports store that specialized Nordic walking attire and poles.
Onboard the Bragi for the evening, yet another enjoyable dinner followed by a concert, "Music of Cologne".
It was just prior to 3:00AM when the Bragi struck the bridge pylon...crushed the pylon, throwing everything on board,"ass over tea kettle", as we would say in Kanata. The biggest hit was taken by the dishes...over 50% were smashed! The result was a ten hour delay whilst local officials, police and river authorities completed their respective investigations. The captain called us all together to explain what had occurred and the subsequent reactions. The biggest disappointment for me was that because of the occurrence, Kinderdijk would be dropped from the itinerary...no World Heritage site for us today...all my life I've wanted to see real windmills!
As we begin the final hours together aboard the Bragi, there is much to do in order to disembark. Settling of accounts, packing for the next phase. We will leave the boat in Amsterdam tomorrow morning at 5:45...heading to the airport for flights to Frankfurt, then on to Marlow, England.
Travelling with our friends the Barbers and Coulas's has been such a wonderful experience. I can't wait to share the thousands of photos we've accumulated...once back in Canada!
Our afternoon consisted of free time touring through a massive shopping mall area. My son will appreciate that standing opposite each other were two stores...SportsCheck and Sposstadt Sports. There was one sports store that specialized Nordic walking attire and poles.
Onboard the Bragi for the evening, yet another enjoyable dinner followed by a concert, "Music of Cologne".
It was just prior to 3:00AM when the Bragi struck the bridge pylon...crushed the pylon, throwing everything on board,"ass over tea kettle", as we would say in Kanata. The biggest hit was taken by the dishes...over 50% were smashed! The result was a ten hour delay whilst local officials, police and river authorities completed their respective investigations. The captain called us all together to explain what had occurred and the subsequent reactions. The biggest disappointment for me was that because of the occurrence, Kinderdijk would be dropped from the itinerary...no World Heritage site for us today...all my life I've wanted to see real windmills!
As we begin the final hours together aboard the Bragi, there is much to do in order to disembark. Settling of accounts, packing for the next phase. We will leave the boat in Amsterdam tomorrow morning at 5:45...heading to the airport for flights to Frankfurt, then on to Marlow, England.
Travelling with our friends the Barbers and Coulas's has been such a wonderful experience. I can't wait to share the thousands of photos we've accumulated...once back in Canada!
Thursday, October 3, 2013
A Rhine Valley Day of Castles!
Early today we passed through Frankfurt with nary a mention. What caught our attention was the 6:30 am sounds of aircraft landing and departing...literally the first sounds like that in over 12 days! All the hustle and bustle of the big city was a mere point of the passing morning. Soon we arrived into a valley of castles and fortresses towering high above the river...that was the scene for many hours...castle after castle. The middle Rhine is a river valley with tall cliffs, a castle perched literally on every hilltop, with quaint villages lining the river banks. Loreli is but one example of the myths and legends that have passed from generation to generation. It is a very rocky, dangerous portion of the river, where it is said many a sailor lost his boat, paying too much attention to the beautiful Loreli. Prior to reaching today's destination, destination Koblenz, we passed by Bingen and Rudesheim, where steep vineyards that produce famous Rhine wines. Some 29 years ago, Marion and I experienced a wonderful tour of this area with our former Director of Education, Stan Berry. We cruised then as we are doing later tonight to Cologne. This is an amazing region, one known for its wealth of cultural influence and religious buildings. The Rhine as a road of cultural development is clear today as it was hundreds of years ago, the cargo boats plying this river even today is incredible. For this, the Middle Rhine Valley was designated a World Heritage Site in 2002.
Our mid afternoon tour was to visit Marksburg Castle, one which has maintained all of its original construction. It stands today as the best-preserved castle on the river. It has stood the est of over 800 years without being significantly blemished... The reason is its location. It stands high atop a steep, isolated hill on a bend in the river. The terrain around it would discourage anyone from attempting an attack. After our adventurous climb, the only thing that revived us was a cold beer, once safely back on the Bragi. This is a castle that one would have to see and experience to believe.
Our night stop is in the beautiful town of Koblenz, another Rhine town that dates back to the Romans, who established it as a military stronghold around 10BC. At he point at which the Rhine and Mozelle Rivers meet is a monstrous statue of Kaiser Wilhelm. Across from where we are docked stands a mighty fortress that towers over Koblenz, called Festung Ehrenbreitstein. A visit to that location will have to be on anther visit to the region.
Docked here until 4:00 AM, our next port of call along the Rhine will be one of my favorite German cities...Cologne. That's tomorrow's blog!
Our mid afternoon tour was to visit Marksburg Castle, one which has maintained all of its original construction. It stands today as the best-preserved castle on the river. It has stood the est of over 800 years without being significantly blemished... The reason is its location. It stands high atop a steep, isolated hill on a bend in the river. The terrain around it would discourage anyone from attempting an attack. After our adventurous climb, the only thing that revived us was a cold beer, once safely back on the Bragi. This is a castle that one would have to see and experience to believe.
Our night stop is in the beautiful town of Koblenz, another Rhine town that dates back to the Romans, who established it as a military stronghold around 10BC. At he point at which the Rhine and Mozelle Rivers meet is a monstrous statue of Kaiser Wilhelm. Across from where we are docked stands a mighty fortress that towers over Koblenz, called Festung Ehrenbreitstein. A visit to that location will have to be on anther visit to the region.
Docked here until 4:00 AM, our next port of call along the Rhine will be one of my favorite German cities...Cologne. That's tomorrow's blog!
Wednesday, October 2, 2013
Wertheim
Our stop in Wertheim was magical, an easy walking tour through a relatively small medieval town, followed by a relaxing cruise filled with picturesque camera shots! I think this afternoon was to prepare us what's to come. Wertheim is strategically located at the confluence of the Main and Tauber Rivers, upstream from where the Main meets the Rhine. It is known for its glassworks, wine and castle ruins that are amongst the largest in Germany.
The Wetheim Castle was built in the 12th century, expanded during the 15th - 17th and destroyed during the Thirty Years' War in 1634. The main landmark of the town, it overlooks narrow streets filled with half-timbered houses and the Gothic architecture of the church and abbey.
While the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy is famous, what exists here in Wertheim, the Pointed Tower built in the 13th century as a lookout, also has a severe lean to it also. It leans because of 800 years of flooding. Many of the town's structures include markers showing high water marks through the centuries. I continue to be amazed at the resilience of those living along the rivers of Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Austria, and Germany, who clean up from floods twice in the spring and twice in the autumn.
For those into further research, sightings along the way today have included Stratprozelten, a little town in the narrow valley of the Main between Miltenberg and Wertheim and it's castle Henneburg, Freudenberg with its castle towering over the town, Miltenberg, valued by the Romans for its strategic importance along the Main, Grossenbach, famous for its monastic beer brewing... So much to enjoy...all views along the river!
Out travels along the rivers have until today been mostly through the state of Bavaria with its natural surroundings, a wealth of culture... No wonder it is one of Germany's most popular holiday regions. I think that one of the most surprising elements has been the number of recreational vehicles, both trailers and motor homes that have been parked along the rivers and canals. RV parks are everywhere and still busy into the month of October. Many are adjacent to the numerous locks through which we pass. Our riverboat is 425 feet long and in most locks there is apace for at least two boats end to end. The locks are enormous!
Tomorrow...through the castle region from Koblenz to Cologne. The camera and the iPad are already both on charge!
The Wetheim Castle was built in the 12th century, expanded during the 15th - 17th and destroyed during the Thirty Years' War in 1634. The main landmark of the town, it overlooks narrow streets filled with half-timbered houses and the Gothic architecture of the church and abbey.
While the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy is famous, what exists here in Wertheim, the Pointed Tower built in the 13th century as a lookout, also has a severe lean to it also. It leans because of 800 years of flooding. Many of the town's structures include markers showing high water marks through the centuries. I continue to be amazed at the resilience of those living along the rivers of Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Austria, and Germany, who clean up from floods twice in the spring and twice in the autumn.
For those into further research, sightings along the way today have included Stratprozelten, a little town in the narrow valley of the Main between Miltenberg and Wertheim and it's castle Henneburg, Freudenberg with its castle towering over the town, Miltenberg, valued by the Romans for its strategic importance along the Main, Grossenbach, famous for its monastic beer brewing... So much to enjoy...all views along the river!
Out travels along the rivers have until today been mostly through the state of Bavaria with its natural surroundings, a wealth of culture... No wonder it is one of Germany's most popular holiday regions. I think that one of the most surprising elements has been the number of recreational vehicles, both trailers and motor homes that have been parked along the rivers and canals. RV parks are everywhere and still busy into the month of October. Many are adjacent to the numerous locks through which we pass. Our riverboat is 425 feet long and in most locks there is apace for at least two boats end to end. The locks are enormous!
Tomorrow...through the castle region from Koblenz to Cologne. The camera and the iPad are already both on charge!
Wurzburg & Rothenburg
The days are starting to run together. On this particular day, the boys, Garnet, Jim and I opted to do a little cross-country tour by bus to Rothenburg, while the girls, Shirley, Pam and Marion opted to spend more time in Wurzburg touring, dining and shopping. There is so much to see and do!
First, the Rothenburg bus trip; departing the city of Wurzburg, with a guide, we travelled about 75 minutes,along the "Romantic Road". Described as the 'grandfather' of Germany's scenic routes, we drove through historic towns with striking buildings and historical sites. We traveled through a very rich agricultural region. Large crops of corn and sugar beet predominated the country-side. Farms were very large and extremely tidy. In this part of the country, dairy cattle were stabled year round. Milk was shipped to a huge central processing plant owned by the French company, Danone, a name well known in Canada also. All farm houses and barns were in a community. No houses were located on the actual farms. We saw the latest equipment harvesting sugar beets, the principle source of sugar for Germany. Arriving in the best-preserved medieval city of Rothenburg, we entered through an arch in the outer city wall, a 1 1/2 city wall that encircles the city. Inside, a city of wonderful architectural display from the Middle Ages. The wall connects five medieval gates, complete with guard towers that date from the 13th - 16th centuries. In the centre of the town, the Rothenburg Town Hall Tower, from which fabulous views of Rothenburg and the surrounding countryside can be seen. The entire town is a museum filled with cobblestone streets, fountains, nada mix of gothic, renaissance and baroque houses and stores. Following our guided tour, a traditional German lunch was served... Cream of potato soup, bratwurst, sauerkraut and mashed potato. Dessert was the ever popular apple strudel...did I mention beer? I must admit that I missed a lot of the countryside on the return trip to Wurzburg ... It seemed like the perfect time to snooze!
Meanwhile, back in Wurzburg, the girls had already experienced what we were soon to see...the Wurzburg Residenz Palace. it's difficult to comprehend the opulence and splendour of such a place! The resident prince-bishops wielded enormous power and wealth, and the city of Wurzburg was the epitome of that wealth. Built in the mid 1750s, it boasts a grand staircase with an unsupported vaulted ceiling which features the largest ceiling fresco in the world...so glorious, along with rooms so special one must check all knapsacks prior to entry. It is also not possible to use a camera while inside the palace...that was disappointing for sure but did allow for one to concentrate completely on what was to be seen.
So, a hectic day of walking and viewing and recording all that was to be taken in!
First, the Rothenburg bus trip; departing the city of Wurzburg, with a guide, we travelled about 75 minutes,along the "Romantic Road". Described as the 'grandfather' of Germany's scenic routes, we drove through historic towns with striking buildings and historical sites. We traveled through a very rich agricultural region. Large crops of corn and sugar beet predominated the country-side. Farms were very large and extremely tidy. In this part of the country, dairy cattle were stabled year round. Milk was shipped to a huge central processing plant owned by the French company, Danone, a name well known in Canada also. All farm houses and barns were in a community. No houses were located on the actual farms. We saw the latest equipment harvesting sugar beets, the principle source of sugar for Germany. Arriving in the best-preserved medieval city of Rothenburg, we entered through an arch in the outer city wall, a 1 1/2 city wall that encircles the city. Inside, a city of wonderful architectural display from the Middle Ages. The wall connects five medieval gates, complete with guard towers that date from the 13th - 16th centuries. In the centre of the town, the Rothenburg Town Hall Tower, from which fabulous views of Rothenburg and the surrounding countryside can be seen. The entire town is a museum filled with cobblestone streets, fountains, nada mix of gothic, renaissance and baroque houses and stores. Following our guided tour, a traditional German lunch was served... Cream of potato soup, bratwurst, sauerkraut and mashed potato. Dessert was the ever popular apple strudel...did I mention beer? I must admit that I missed a lot of the countryside on the return trip to Wurzburg ... It seemed like the perfect time to snooze!
Meanwhile, back in Wurzburg, the girls had already experienced what we were soon to see...the Wurzburg Residenz Palace. it's difficult to comprehend the opulence and splendour of such a place! The resident prince-bishops wielded enormous power and wealth, and the city of Wurzburg was the epitome of that wealth. Built in the mid 1750s, it boasts a grand staircase with an unsupported vaulted ceiling which features the largest ceiling fresco in the world...so glorious, along with rooms so special one must check all knapsacks prior to entry. It is also not possible to use a camera while inside the palace...that was disappointing for sure but did allow for one to concentrate completely on what was to be seen.
So, a hectic day of walking and viewing and recording all that was to be taken in!
Monday, September 30, 2013
Bamberg, Germany
It would be easy to become overwhelmed by the number of stops, ports, cathedrals and town squares on this journey. Each stop is unique for reasons of location, history and beauty. Bamburg is no exception. Located on the old Regnitz Island and stretching across seven hills, Bamberg owes its appearance to a bishop's love of pomp and splendour and to the fact that it suffered very little damage during World War II. It is truly a beautiful city and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It lists over 2,000 buildings as historical monuments, and it's old city center is Europe's largest existing group of historic buildings...it is also famous for having over 30 local breweries, proudly producing a smoky-tasting beer!
The present day cathedral was built in the 13th century. Cathedral Hill is truly a must see site while wandering this city. I found the climbing quite exhausting... A climb which definitely required the reward of an ale in the Gruner Markt (Green Market...for vegetables). All around this city are large agricultural lands, with rich soils for market gardeners, whose cultivable land provides quality goods for the market. Learning the terms medieval and baroque is important in learning about this largest intact old town in Germany. Today it is a vibrant city with approximately 70,000 inhabitants, a university and numerous schools. Our guide today was a student from the University of Bamberg, knowledgable beyond her years, working as a guide as she prepared to become a teacher. Sites seen today included The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George, with its four towers, The Chancery and, "Beautiful Gate", The Residence of the Prince Bishop, the Rose Garden
The present day cathedral was built in the 13th century. Cathedral Hill is truly a must see site while wandering this city. I found the climbing quite exhausting... A climb which definitely required the reward of an ale in the Gruner Markt (Green Market...for vegetables). All around this city are large agricultural lands, with rich soils for market gardeners, whose cultivable land provides quality goods for the market. Learning the terms medieval and baroque is important in learning about this largest intact old town in Germany. Today it is a vibrant city with approximately 70,000 inhabitants, a university and numerous schools. Our guide today was a student from the University of Bamberg, knowledgable beyond her years, working as a guide as she prepared to become a teacher. Sites seen today included The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George, with its four towers, The Chancery and, "Beautiful Gate", The Residence of the Prince Bishop, the Rose Garden
Bratislava
Having passed through the Gabcikovo Lock and and power station at km1819, we are traversing a huge canal like area that directs the power of the Danube towards the power station. The lock itself is one of 68 that we will encounter on our journey to Amsterdam. One of the deepest locks, the Bragi was lifted approximately 60 feet. The river is fast flowing and quite an earthy brown. One is taken by the amount of floating trees and deadheads along the way...
The following is from an email that I attempted to send (unsuccessfully) earlier today to family and
friends... It captures much of what we have experienced along the way.
Good morning! It's Tuesday already. The early morning views along the Danube are awesome. This part of the river is quite narrow, heavily treed and except for the quick current, could be the Rideau River between Poonamalie lock and Rideau Ferry.
Everything about the Viking Bragi is amazing...the comfort, the quiet, the quality of the wine, beer and food. Our cabin is very complete, although quite compact. The floor to ceiling patio window offers a great view of all there is to be scene. The last thing I do at night is draw the curtain...so anxious not to miss anything.
We had a terrific bus tour yesterday in Budapest with a very knowledgable tour guide, who shared both the history of the city and the discouraging thoughts about Hungary's struggle to move from communism to a democratic society. Simply, being from Canada, we have no idea what an amazing lifestyle we have and how important it is to keep things democratic...
Enough about political situations...
We are so fortunate to have chosen this cruise and to be sharing it with Garnet & Shirley and Pam & Jim, is a bonus. Everyone is getting along wonderfully, getting together for meals and having enough space to do our respective own thing is working out well. I can't believe that Marion & I are the nighthawks of the group!
This afternoon around 2:00, we'll dock in Bratislava in the Czech Republic. We'll tour the area both by bus and walk. This evening we'll have local entertainment on board prior to departing at 11:00 for Vienna, Austria, where tomorrow night we'll be attending a Mozart & Strauss concert. Vienna is a city of music!
Hoping all is well at home...we'll keep in touch!
It's time to get ready for a safety/fire drill...life jackets and all!
Cheers and as they say in Hungary, Szia...pronounced see-ah!
Marion & Brian
A quiet time right now, comfortably at my desk with wonderful views out the patio window, about 12" from my right shoulder, I get to see all that goes by.
Next on our agenda, having just completed the mandatory fire drill on the cool and breezy sun deck is a presentation prior to lunch about Vienna Coffeehouses and a briefing on the famous composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Needless to say we are very much looking forward to attending a Mozrt and Strauss concert, tomorrow evening in Vienna.
The following is from an email that I attempted to send (unsuccessfully) earlier today to family and
friends... It captures much of what we have experienced along the way.
Good morning! It's Tuesday already. The early morning views along the Danube are awesome. This part of the river is quite narrow, heavily treed and except for the quick current, could be the Rideau River between Poonamalie lock and Rideau Ferry.
Everything about the Viking Bragi is amazing...the comfort, the quiet, the quality of the wine, beer and food. Our cabin is very complete, although quite compact. The floor to ceiling patio window offers a great view of all there is to be scene. The last thing I do at night is draw the curtain...so anxious not to miss anything.
We had a terrific bus tour yesterday in Budapest with a very knowledgable tour guide, who shared both the history of the city and the discouraging thoughts about Hungary's struggle to move from communism to a democratic society. Simply, being from Canada, we have no idea what an amazing lifestyle we have and how important it is to keep things democratic...
Enough about political situations...
We are so fortunate to have chosen this cruise and to be sharing it with Garnet & Shirley and Pam & Jim, is a bonus. Everyone is getting along wonderfully, getting together for meals and having enough space to do our respective own thing is working out well. I can't believe that Marion & I are the nighthawks of the group!
This afternoon around 2:00, we'll dock in Bratislava in the Czech Republic. We'll tour the area both by bus and walk. This evening we'll have local entertainment on board prior to departing at 11:00 for Vienna, Austria, where tomorrow night we'll be attending a Mozart & Strauss concert. Vienna is a city of music!
Hoping all is well at home...we'll keep in touch!
It's time to get ready for a safety/fire drill...life jackets and all!
Cheers and as they say in Hungary, Szia...pronounced see-ah!
Marion & Brian
A quiet time right now, comfortably at my desk with wonderful views out the patio window, about 12" from my right shoulder, I get to see all that goes by.
Next on our agenda, having just completed the mandatory fire drill on the cool and breezy sun deck is a presentation prior to lunch about Vienna Coffeehouses and a briefing on the famous composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Needless to say we are very much looking forward to attending a Mozrt and Strauss concert, tomorrow evening in Vienna.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Nuremberg
I was somewhat leery about our visit to Nuremberg because of its past, mostly because of my having read about the Nuremberg that the Nazis saw as the ideal setting for their activities. Our tour guide took us first to the great coliseum that Hitler had constructed, the site where Nazi Party rallies were held. This was a monstrous area, large like the Roman Coliseum, where Hitler staged fanatical party rallies.The building was never completed and sits literally untouched from 1945 with the exception of the creation of The Documentation Center, a site which contains thought provoking exhibits, as well as detailed material on the history of the rallies, showing the manipulative nature of the Nazi propaganda. Our guide put that entire era into an understandable perspective, moved from there past the site of the Courtroom of the Nuremberg Trials, then proceeded to show us Bavaria's second largest city, with its medieval old town and grand castle. He explained that over 80% of the city had been flattened in January 1945 by Allied bombers and how lead by women survivors of the war had with painstaking care rebuilt the city, including the castle and the old churches. The city is surrounded by massive walls. The Aldstadt or old town was a challenging walk, following our climb to the top of the city to see the grand castle; the view from there gave an appreciation of the effort required to complete the reconstruction. It is a vibrant, tourist-laden area. Our good fortune was to experience a wonderful Bavarian market...and to enjoy a pint of local beer...rather a half litre of local beer. The other treat was to experience sizzling finger-sized bratwurst, locally known as, 'three-on-a-bun'. A feature that we learned about but didn't take time to try was the gingerbread cookie, traditionally eaten at Christmas, available all year.
Nuremberg is an overwhelming city, one which tourists could spend days exploring. A return visit would allow us time to explore museums and galleries to understand more of the German culture, art and history. This is a must return to part of Germany!
Nuremberg is an overwhelming city, one which tourists could spend days exploring. A return visit would allow us time to explore museums and galleries to understand more of the German culture, art and history. This is a must return to part of Germany!
The Main-Danube Canal
Over the past 18 hours we have travelled along the Main-Dabube Canal, which was completed in 1992, creating a continuous waterway 2,200 miles long passing through 15 countries and linking hundreds of inland ports. The canal is 106 miles long, running from Kelheim on the Danube to bam berg on the Main River. It's 16 stair-step locks rise to a watershed 1,332 feet above sea level, the highest point on any European waterway. I point this out as through the night we entered and departed several long, narrow locks with plenty of contact with lock walls, making sleeping a tenuous activity separated by short periods of quiet! At sun-up we started the decline, some locks gently lowering us 80 feet at a time. One would hardly know that this is an artificial waterway. Great care has been taken to see that the canal blends harmoniously with the beautiful landscapes through which it passes. While travelling through this canal this morning a professor from a local university, boarded the Bragi and presented an overview of the European Union. When completed, she departed the Bragi, passed her bicycle and lecture notes on to a Viking Riverboat heading in the opposite direction for a ride back through the locks to her home.
We are about to disembark for a shore excursion to Nuremburg...more sightseeing!
We are about to disembark for a shore excursion to Nuremburg...more sightseeing!
Saturday, September 28, 2013
Regensburg, The Oldest City on the Danube
The main branch of the Danube flows through the 16 arches of the Stone Bridge., Built 1135-1146, this masterpiece of medieval engineering is 1,017 feet long and still carries traffic from the left bank of the river through the last remaining tower into Regensburg's unique Old Town. Anyone who has crossed the 5 span bridge that crosses the Mississippi in Pakenham wil be familiar with the construction of the Stone Bridge... This charming town traces it's roots to the the sixth century. During the 12th and 13th centuries, Regensburg became the wealthiest and most populated city in southern Germany, and extensive trading was done with Venice via the Brenner Pass. Many churches, dynastic towers and patrician houses not found anywhere else give this city it's medieval appearance. It has had a glorious past, now a much less important town in terms of political or economic significance, it continues to shine as a visitors hot spot.
Gothic St. Peter's Cathedral, with its Romanesque tower called the Donkey Tower, is a remnant of the old cathedral, which was left as a support for the new Gothic construction. Finished in 1869. With twin towers , 344 feet high, we're added from 1859-1869.
Today has been a wandering day, following our guided tour; meandering up and down quaint narrow streets built hundreds of years ago. Cobblestone is the form of pavement, somewhat difficult to walk; well worth the effort to see countless shops, specializing in German clothing, clocks, watches, and the never-ending souvenir shops! Restaurants abound...the pub that we found was a famous outdoor sausage kitchen, where a mid afternooon snack included sausage, mustard, sauerkraut, pretzels and the ever required Bavarian beer. This particular area was also seriously flooded as recently as 12 weeks ago. A tile marks the level on the exterior wall to which water rose this Spring. Again the perseverance of the people amazes us. Floods are a part of life here; once the water recedes the population picks up and carries on with the tidying up
Gothic St. Peter's Cathedral, with its Romanesque tower called the Donkey Tower, is a remnant of the old cathedral, which was left as a support for the new Gothic construction. Finished in 1869. With twin towers , 344 feet high, we're added from 1859-1869.
Today has been a wandering day, following our guided tour; meandering up and down quaint narrow streets built hundreds of years ago. Cobblestone is the form of pavement, somewhat difficult to walk; well worth the effort to see countless shops, specializing in German clothing, clocks, watches, and the never-ending souvenir shops! Restaurants abound...the pub that we found was a famous outdoor sausage kitchen, where a mid afternooon snack included sausage, mustard, sauerkraut, pretzels and the ever required Bavarian beer. This particular area was also seriously flooded as recently as 12 weeks ago. A tile marks the level on the exterior wall to which water rose this Spring. Again the perseverance of the people amazes us. Floods are a part of life here; once the water recedes the population picks up and carries on with the tidying up
Friday, September 27, 2013
Passau, Germany
Known as the City of Three Rivers, Passau lies at the confluence of the Inn, the Danube and the Ilz rivers. It is the first major German city on the Danube near the border of Austria.... Dating back to Celtic tribes, later the site of a Roman camp; in the year 739, a Celtic monk founded the diocese of Passau. Our guide told us of how Passau was an important medieval centre for the salt trade and later famous for the making of high-quality knife and sword blades. The old town, with its baroque churches and patrician houses, is crowded onto a narrow point separating the Danube and Inn rivers. St. Stephen's Cathedral, built in 1688, is one of the town's most important landmarks and boasts the largest pipe organ in Europe. From our view, we look up to see the Oberhausen fortress. I found it interesting that our brilliant young guide made no mention of the significance of Passau relative to Adolf Hitler growing up here, learning the distinctive lower Bavarian dialect that marked his speeches, nor the fact that Pasau was the home to three concentration camps during WWII. For us it has been a delightful visit to an old German town, where we were entertained with a wonderful tour and audience to a truly powerful organ concert.
A final thought about this part of our visit... It is amazing how accepting of the power of the river and the damage of resulting flooding earlier this year was to our guide. We saw the height of flood waters from June of this year, the highest water lines on buildings ever recorded. Complete sections of the old town were in the midst of reconstruction. Many shops, particularly in the artisan section are replacing complete first floors. Because of the strength of the structures and doors, exterior damage was minimal; whole interiors are needing complete replacement.
We are ready to depart this afternoon for a Saturday visit to historic and vibrant Regensburg, one of Germany's best-preserved medieval towns.
I've commented very little about the cruise itself... The quality of the staff of the Viking Bragi is unbelievable! Everything is first class, for sure. Our meals, their preparation and the serving of same are top notch. The six of us, Garnet & Shirley, Jim & Pam and Marion & I are together at a table for
6 both at lunch and dinner. The staff that takes care of us goes far and above what would be expected. The chef is a young man with 9 years experience, this being his first cruise experience. The quality of his daily menu is a really special. I had the pleasure to travel to the farmers' market with him in Vienna. What a special treat that was. Service is exceptional...humour and class go a long way to adding to the pleasure of our travels! At the conclusion of this experience, increased exercise and attention to diet will be high on our respective 'to do' lists!
A final thought about this part of our visit... It is amazing how accepting of the power of the river and the damage of resulting flooding earlier this year was to our guide. We saw the height of flood waters from June of this year, the highest water lines on buildings ever recorded. Complete sections of the old town were in the midst of reconstruction. Many shops, particularly in the artisan section are replacing complete first floors. Because of the strength of the structures and doors, exterior damage was minimal; whole interiors are needing complete replacement.
We are ready to depart this afternoon for a Saturday visit to historic and vibrant Regensburg, one of Germany's best-preserved medieval towns.
I've commented very little about the cruise itself... The quality of the staff of the Viking Bragi is unbelievable! Everything is first class, for sure. Our meals, their preparation and the serving of same are top notch. The six of us, Garnet & Shirley, Jim & Pam and Marion & I are together at a table for
6 both at lunch and dinner. The staff that takes care of us goes far and above what would be expected. The chef is a young man with 9 years experience, this being his first cruise experience. The quality of his daily menu is a really special. I had the pleasure to travel to the farmers' market with him in Vienna. What a special treat that was. Service is exceptional...humour and class go a long way to adding to the pleasure of our travels! At the conclusion of this experience, increased exercise and attention to diet will be high on our respective 'to do' lists!
Thursday, September 26, 2013
The Melk Experience
This morning the Bragi sailed through the Wachau Valley, the heart of Austria's wine country. This is a truly spectacular area of the Danube and is recognized for its cultural and historical significance and is of such unsurpassed beauty, that it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Upon arrival in Melk, we disembarked for an excursion to the ostentatious Melk Abbey, perched on the sheer cliffs high above the Danube. 900 years old and in a elaborate Baroque style, pictures don't do it justice. It's stunning library with one of the largest collections of medieval manuscripts, in addition to a kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, with its magnificent carved pulpit and shimmering ceiling frescoes makes the Benedictine Abbey in Lower Austria truly sensational. Melk is a masterpiece of the typically Austrian period of art - the Baroque. Monks of the Benedictine Order have lived and worked here for over 900 years. In the monastery itself, monks run a public secondary school with nearly 900 students. The monastery sees the religious and intellectual formation of its pupils as an important spiritual duty. I found out that the monastery's income from agriculture and tourism is used to fulfill these duties and to finance the costly and difficult maintenance required for this outstanding building.
Back onboard the Bragi, we continue to experience outstanding service and attention. Every detail is taken care of, from room service, to concierge , to meals. One could not ask for better service!
Tomorrow sees our arrival in Passau...if all goes well, we should hook up briefly with friends who are doing a similar tour, only in reverse. Here's to connecting with them!
Upon arrival in Melk, we disembarked for an excursion to the ostentatious Melk Abbey, perched on the sheer cliffs high above the Danube. 900 years old and in a elaborate Baroque style, pictures don't do it justice. It's stunning library with one of the largest collections of medieval manuscripts, in addition to a kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, with its magnificent carved pulpit and shimmering ceiling frescoes makes the Benedictine Abbey in Lower Austria truly sensational. Melk is a masterpiece of the typically Austrian period of art - the Baroque. Monks of the Benedictine Order have lived and worked here for over 900 years. In the monastery itself, monks run a public secondary school with nearly 900 students. The monastery sees the religious and intellectual formation of its pupils as an important spiritual duty. I found out that the monastery's income from agriculture and tourism is used to fulfill these duties and to finance the costly and difficult maintenance required for this outstanding building.
Back onboard the Bragi, we continue to experience outstanding service and attention. Every detail is taken care of, from room service, to concierge , to meals. One could not ask for better service!
Tomorrow sees our arrival in Passau...if all goes well, we should hook up briefly with friends who are doing a similar tour, only in reverse. Here's to connecting with them!
Country Number Three...Austria
Following an excellent day in Bratislava, Slovakia we find ourselves in Vienna, Austria this morning.
Yesterday's experiences included a tour and guided walk of Bratislava, Slovakia's charming capital. Our bus tour included a drive through Embassy Row, a stop at Bratislava Castle overlooking the city from its hilltop location. Set at the foot of the Little Carpathian Mountains, the city is dominated by this massive square castle. Our tour through the quaint old town, we saw St. Martin's Cathedral Michael's Gate with its 15th-century tower, Main Square with its quirky sculptures all over the place...even passing by the Canadian Embassy. It is interesting to note the proximity of two capital cities, Bratislava and Vienna, a mere 68 miles apart, closer than any two other capital cities in the world! Our Slovakia day was complete with evening entertainment aboard the Bragi with a Slovakian Folkloric Show...traditional music, songs and dance. it was a show not to be missed!
A night of cruising has brought us to this next city, Vienna. The rows of longboats are unbelievable, so many so that we are rafted onto each other. One needs to be sure one is dressed prior to sliding open the patio curtains, at the risk of looking right into a neighbour's patio. This will be an event filled day, with a city tour this morning, an optional tour to the farmers' market with the ships chef to select groceries for our next meal, then this evening a Mozart/Strauss concert...so much to report on. Weather has been very autumn like with cool breezes on the river. Sweaters are never far away.
Our morning tour exposed to us a grand and glorious mix of what was once the seat of the Habsburgs and the centre of the Holy Roman Empire. It is clearly one of the world's greatest centres of art, music and architecture. The splendid selection of museums and palaces in the area of the Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard which encircles the medieval city is almost overwhelming.
We took some extra time to visit St. Stephen's Cathedral, a gothic structure which is a testament to Vienna's status in the Middle Ages.
I chose to take an option trip to the Farmers' Market during the afternoon, accompanied by our longboat's chef, a young man from Slovakia, who while being a chef foe nine years was a Viking chef since this past May. He had the opportunity to set up his kitchen on the brand new Bragi. It was a short ride on the subway where fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, cheeses and breads were readily available. There was also a pleasant mix of bars and eating places intertwined with the stalls. Chef arranged for a tasting of cheeses, hams, and breads as part our visit...very tasty!
Heading back to the Bragi, I knew that the best of the day was yet to come. Following yet another outstanding dinner, we boarded buses to head to a local palace. More than any other European capital, Vienna is a city of music. Even the elegant buildings along the famed Ringstasse seems to sing. concerts abound and on any evening, one is sure to succeed at finding a concert in a high-style venue. Ours was in a place concert hall/ballroom and presented by the Vienna Residence Orchestra. It.was so easy to lose ourselves in the amazing presentation...Vienna's most beloved music, with costumed singers and dancers, selections such as Mozart's The Magic Flute, the beauty of Strauss's waltzes... All that and a delightful drive from the concert through the nightlife of Vienna back to the Bragi. It was such a complete day!
To my friends in Ottawa eager to know about the Austrian take on Christopher Plummer, Julie Andrews and the movie The Sound of Music, there is little interest and a lot of disdain for both the actors and the movie, itself. It is as if the Austrian feel insulted by the presentation of that story. Only Hollywood they say could make up sauce a fairy tale.
On a personal note, seeing the winter stables, right down town of the Lippizaner stallions was truly opportunistic. I managed some great photos as we'll of the horses being walked to the training ring...no show, just being in the right place at the right time!
Yesterday's experiences included a tour and guided walk of Bratislava, Slovakia's charming capital. Our bus tour included a drive through Embassy Row, a stop at Bratislava Castle overlooking the city from its hilltop location. Set at the foot of the Little Carpathian Mountains, the city is dominated by this massive square castle. Our tour through the quaint old town, we saw St. Martin's Cathedral Michael's Gate with its 15th-century tower, Main Square with its quirky sculptures all over the place...even passing by the Canadian Embassy. It is interesting to note the proximity of two capital cities, Bratislava and Vienna, a mere 68 miles apart, closer than any two other capital cities in the world! Our Slovakia day was complete with evening entertainment aboard the Bragi with a Slovakian Folkloric Show...traditional music, songs and dance. it was a show not to be missed!
A night of cruising has brought us to this next city, Vienna. The rows of longboats are unbelievable, so many so that we are rafted onto each other. One needs to be sure one is dressed prior to sliding open the patio curtains, at the risk of looking right into a neighbour's patio. This will be an event filled day, with a city tour this morning, an optional tour to the farmers' market with the ships chef to select groceries for our next meal, then this evening a Mozart/Strauss concert...so much to report on. Weather has been very autumn like with cool breezes on the river. Sweaters are never far away.
Our morning tour exposed to us a grand and glorious mix of what was once the seat of the Habsburgs and the centre of the Holy Roman Empire. It is clearly one of the world's greatest centres of art, music and architecture. The splendid selection of museums and palaces in the area of the Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard which encircles the medieval city is almost overwhelming.
We took some extra time to visit St. Stephen's Cathedral, a gothic structure which is a testament to Vienna's status in the Middle Ages.
I chose to take an option trip to the Farmers' Market during the afternoon, accompanied by our longboat's chef, a young man from Slovakia, who while being a chef foe nine years was a Viking chef since this past May. He had the opportunity to set up his kitchen on the brand new Bragi. It was a short ride on the subway where fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, cheeses and breads were readily available. There was also a pleasant mix of bars and eating places intertwined with the stalls. Chef arranged for a tasting of cheeses, hams, and breads as part our visit...very tasty!
Heading back to the Bragi, I knew that the best of the day was yet to come. Following yet another outstanding dinner, we boarded buses to head to a local palace. More than any other European capital, Vienna is a city of music. Even the elegant buildings along the famed Ringstasse seems to sing. concerts abound and on any evening, one is sure to succeed at finding a concert in a high-style venue. Ours was in a place concert hall/ballroom and presented by the Vienna Residence Orchestra. It.was so easy to lose ourselves in the amazing presentation...Vienna's most beloved music, with costumed singers and dancers, selections such as Mozart's The Magic Flute, the beauty of Strauss's waltzes... All that and a delightful drive from the concert through the nightlife of Vienna back to the Bragi. It was such a complete day!
To my friends in Ottawa eager to know about the Austrian take on Christopher Plummer, Julie Andrews and the movie The Sound of Music, there is little interest and a lot of disdain for both the actors and the movie, itself. It is as if the Austrian feel insulted by the presentation of that story. Only Hollywood they say could make up sauce a fairy tale.
On a personal note, seeing the winter stables, right down town of the Lippizaner stallions was truly opportunistic. I managed some great photos as we'll of the horses being walked to the training ring...no show, just being in the right place at the right time!
Monday, September 23, 2013
Budapest...Old World Charm with a Cosmopolitan Air
It is late Monday evening...having departed Budapest about 60 minutes ago...what a great day! Today has been such a whirlwind of old world charm and cosmopolitan lifestyle. Budapest is a glorious mix of art and a joy to walk; Buda on the east bank and Pest (pronounced Pesht) on the west. Combined, it is brimming with history, culture and attractions; a mix of several architectural styles, with plenty of exciting things to do. Following breakfast, we boarded buses and began a classic tour, including stops at Hungary's most impressive square, Heroes' Square, which stands in honour and memory of great leaders in Hungary's history. We also drove through the Jewish district, site of the largest synagogue in Europe. Dohany Street is where the city's 19th century Christian designed synagogue is located. It is also known as the Great Synagogue. We were reminded of the years leading up to World War II when over 250,000 Jews perished. It was bombed and used as a stable during World War II, but in the 1990s, after the fall of communism, was restored.
Crossing the Danube River, we reached Castle Hill in the Buda section. Buda is an amazing place for photography as it stands high over the river, looking down upon the Pest region. It is in Buda where one sees the city's old streets, many under street reconstruction; Matthias Church, with its colorful tiled roof and interior murals; Fishermen's Bastian, an elaborate neo-Gothic arcade built on fortification walls is an awesome location for taking pictures. From there one looks across the Danube to see the grand Parliament Building, a huge collection of buildings with over 300 towers...currently going through a massive restoration costing millions! One also has an amazing view of the famous Chain Bridge and Elizabeth Bridge, two of the many that connect the two halves of this vibrant city. Following a pleasant on board meal, we enjoyed a quiet afternoon working off post flight fatigue...a fancy expression for a good nap. This evening's meal was another awesome eating experience. We were joined by another Kanata couple for dinner. Departure from Budapest was at 7:45 under the stars. One could hardly feel the departure of the Bragi. Being on the sun deck was both exciting and frustrating...camera batteries expired at exactly the moment we cruised by the Parliament. We are presently curing upstream towards Brataslava ...planned arrival is around noon tomorrow.
I'll try to post pictures here...if unsuccessful check out my Facebook page...
Crossing the Danube River, we reached Castle Hill in the Buda section. Buda is an amazing place for photography as it stands high over the river, looking down upon the Pest region. It is in Buda where one sees the city's old streets, many under street reconstruction; Matthias Church, with its colorful tiled roof and interior murals; Fishermen's Bastian, an elaborate neo-Gothic arcade built on fortification walls is an awesome location for taking pictures. From there one looks across the Danube to see the grand Parliament Building, a huge collection of buildings with over 300 towers...currently going through a massive restoration costing millions! One also has an amazing view of the famous Chain Bridge and Elizabeth Bridge, two of the many that connect the two halves of this vibrant city. Following a pleasant on board meal, we enjoyed a quiet afternoon working off post flight fatigue...a fancy expression for a good nap. This evening's meal was another awesome eating experience. We were joined by another Kanata couple for dinner. Departure from Budapest was at 7:45 under the stars. One could hardly feel the departure of the Bragi. Being on the sun deck was both exciting and frustrating...camera batteries expired at exactly the moment we cruised by the Parliament. We are presently curing upstream towards Brataslava ...planned arrival is around noon tomorrow.
I'll try to post pictures here...if unsuccessful check out my Facebook page...
Sunday, September 22, 2013
At YOW and Ready To Go!
The big day has finally arrived. I thought that departure time for YOW would never arrive. It was July 17th, 2012 that this plan hatched! Along with friends Garnet & Shirley and Jim and Pam that the decision was taken to book a river cruise. It's been months of planning and imagining about what our trip of a lifetime will be like; now it's time to find out! We will be aboard AC 838 to Frankfurt, a short time in Frankfurt, then on to Budapest, Hungary aboard LH1338. We should arrive at our first destination around 8:30 Frankfurt time....the day has moved so quickly! Already it is late evening in Budapest. It has been like a whirlwind... We found the Frankfurt Airport almost overwhelming and somewhat poorly organized in terms of getting passengers through passport control and on to the next leg of the adventure, taking almost 90 minutes from disembarking from AC838 and on to LH 1338. Service was excellent through both carriers. Our second flight was aboard an Airbus A32, a very comfortable, quiet flight. Upon arrival in Budapest, the Viking crew took over. Before we knew it, we were on a luxury coach, headed for boarding the Viking Bragi! Once aboard,we quickly met up with friends Garnet & Shirley and Jim & Pam. Right from the outset, the service has been excellent! The cocktail hour became the embarkation briefing, where we learned about the ship and about what we could look forward to during our time on board. It's like a fairy tale, things are that well planned!
Tomorrow we will learn about Budapest. What we know already is that few cities
can compare to this city. Hungary's captivating capital combines old world charm with a cosmopolitan lifestyle. It is home to 1.7 million people; the city is actually the merging of two cities... .... So much to know...so little time one has to learn it all!
Tomorrow we will learn about Budapest. What we know already is that few cities
can compare to this city. Hungary's captivating capital combines old world charm with a cosmopolitan lifestyle. It is home to 1.7 million people; the city is actually the merging of two cities... .... So much to know...so little time one has to learn it all!
Tuesday, September 17, 2013
Getting Down to the Short Strokes
Five days and counting...From one of my favourite writers..."Tucked away in our subconscious is an idyllic vision. We see ourselves on a long journey that spans the continent
...Sooner or later we must realize that the true joy of life is the trip!". Anticipation is a wonderful thing!
Tickets/Travel Package have been procured...and hats off to Viking River Cruises and Expedia CruiseShipCenters (Kanata) for excellent information ; checklists have been written and double checked; emergency information sheets have been prepared and printed in triplicate; passports are current and ready; prescriptions and meds are organized; photocopies of photocopies are up to date; instructions for the care of the house and plants completed; all of my packing is complete, although I have not yet moved my suitcase to the front door. My partner is a little more casual about the urgency to get things packed..."It'll all be done on time", she says!
An additional exciting item has been the procurement of an iPad Mini...no big laptops for this traveller. I'll be keeping in touch with the world and blogging from my new toy...first lesson is today at the Apple Store!
To my friends who have blogged their river cruises before me...if there are last minute items about which I should be reminded...this would be a good time to do so!
Next blog..."Sitting at YOW"!
How many more sleeps?
Tickets/Travel Package have been procured...and hats off to Viking River Cruises and Expedia CruiseShipCenters (Kanata) for excellent information ; checklists have been written and double checked; emergency information sheets have been prepared and printed in triplicate; passports are current and ready; prescriptions and meds are organized; photocopies of photocopies are up to date; instructions for the care of the house and plants completed; all of my packing is complete, although I have not yet moved my suitcase to the front door. My partner is a little more casual about the urgency to get things packed..."It'll all be done on time", she says!
An additional exciting item has been the procurement of an iPad Mini...no big laptops for this traveller. I'll be keeping in touch with the world and blogging from my new toy...first lesson is today at the Apple Store!
To my friends who have blogged their river cruises before me...if there are last minute items about which I should be reminded...this would be a good time to do so!
Next blog..."Sitting at YOW"!
How many more sleeps?
Sunday, September 8, 2013
Two Week Countdown
In less than two weeks, immediately following the Richmond Fair Demolition Derby, we board the big bird! Preparation began today. The first thing that I've discovered is that choosing what to pack for a 30 day trip that includes 15 days of cruising European rivers and 15 days of wandering English countryside and fitting all that clothing/stuff into one medium sized duffle bag is a challenge. Clothing for warm days, breezy days and cooler days is proving to be interesting, to say the least! I think that my dilemma is that I promised myself that I would follow Rick Steves', "Essential Packing Checklist" and realize that I can't travel that lightly! Some tough decisions are going to have to be made! The next challenge is to decide what toys and electronics to take. I'm toying with the notion of gearing up with an iPad Mini rather than my laptop, my new Nikon (do I take a tripod?)...well you get the idea.
And wouldn't you know it; since I purchased Euros two weeks ago, the cost has gone down! Had I waited until this week the cost of purchasing foreign funds would have gone up! It's all part of getting ready. Luckily, the next few days are intended for making the several decisions that need to be made.
I can tell you this also, the anticipation is mounting. This will be a trip of our lifetime!
And wouldn't you know it; since I purchased Euros two weeks ago, the cost has gone down! Had I waited until this week the cost of purchasing foreign funds would have gone up! It's all part of getting ready. Luckily, the next few days are intended for making the several decisions that need to be made.
I can tell you this also, the anticipation is mounting. This will be a trip of our lifetime!
Friday, August 30, 2013
The Countdown Begins
On the eve of the ninth month of the year, we're starting to get serious about the late September excursion that lies ahead. The trip that lies ahead is probably our most interesting excursion since 1984, when with the former Director of Education we wandered Germany in a beautifully escorted journey. This trip will see us fly from Ottawa-Frankfurt-Budapest to embark upon Viking River Cruises, Grand European Tour.
Features included are:
Features included are:
- 15-day cruise with river-view stateroom
- 13 guided tours with audio headset
- All meals: 14 breakfasts, 13 lunches, 14 dinners, featuring regional specialties and including Welcome Cocktail Reception & Dinner and Captain’s Farewell Dinner
- Visit 9 UNESCO World Heritage Sites
- Culture Curriculum: Glassblowing demonstration; cheese & jenever tasting Bavarian folkloric music performance, German language lesson, The Dutch Masters, The European Union, Great Canals and Locks, Life and Works of Mozart, the scenic Main River, the Rhine and the Danube's lovely Wachau Valley; European Wine Regions...it goes on and on!
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
Post Great Race Reflections
July 23, 2013
It's another hot Tuesday in the Ottawa area. If you've been following my blog at www.greatrace.com, you'll know that I participated in another superb event, The Hemmings Motor News Great Race presented by Hagerty. This year's event saw the timed endurance rally travel from St. Paul, MN to Mobile, AL. I had the pleasure of announcing shows on both sides of the Mississippi River, several terrific events from St. Paul to Lacrosse, Wisconsin, through Dubuque, Iowa to Davenport, to Peoria, Illinois to Hannibal, Missouri...you get the idea.
Every stop offered enthusiasm and great crowds to cheer on the competitors...all the way through to Mobile, Alabama!
Now, as I reflect on yet another adventure, I marvel at the good fortune I've had travelling all those miles with Great Racers, some for the first time, many for many times over several years.
The next entry of my blog will be the introduction of our next great adventure... a 15 day Viking River cruise from Budapest, Hungary to Amsterdam, Netherlands. That trip is coming in September. I'm starting to thing about that experience and the planning required to make it a success!
Stay tuned!
It's another hot Tuesday in the Ottawa area. If you've been following my blog at www.greatrace.com, you'll know that I participated in another superb event, The Hemmings Motor News Great Race presented by Hagerty. This year's event saw the timed endurance rally travel from St. Paul, MN to Mobile, AL. I had the pleasure of announcing shows on both sides of the Mississippi River, several terrific events from St. Paul to Lacrosse, Wisconsin, through Dubuque, Iowa to Davenport, to Peoria, Illinois to Hannibal, Missouri...you get the idea.
Every stop offered enthusiasm and great crowds to cheer on the competitors...all the way through to Mobile, Alabama!
Now, as I reflect on yet another adventure, I marvel at the good fortune I've had travelling all those miles with Great Racers, some for the first time, many for many times over several years.
The next entry of my blog will be the introduction of our next great adventure... a 15 day Viking River cruise from Budapest, Hungary to Amsterdam, Netherlands. That trip is coming in September. I'm starting to thing about that experience and the planning required to make it a success!
Stay tuned!
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