Higginson Park borders the Thames. It's 23 acres of lawns, flower beds and river views includes a huge playground where most of the town's children spend time each week.
Strolling by the river is one of Marlow's greatest pleasures... The Thames Path National Trail passes through Marlow en-route from the Cotswalds to London. I started my hike heading away from the bridge, through the meadows across from the 12th century Bisham Abbey on the opposite bank, now the home of the National Sports Centre..the training centre for England's elite athletes. I get to see it twice this day on each side of the river...on my walk I see other hikers, fishermen casting lines, boaters and kayakers along the way. My first stop is at Temple Lock, just in time to see a boat passing through. My intention was to stop there, then return to Marlow; however, the sun was shining, the walking easy albeit muddy and the sights refreshing, with the river on one side,
fields of sheep, cattle and various and sundry animals gently grazing on the other.
Beyond the lock and over a footbridge, through another meadow to another footbridge, I reached Hurley Lock, a busy marina area where dozens of boats were moored, awaiting weekend visitors. Beyond the lock I returned to the river, crossed yet another footbridge, along a narrow lane, I arrived at the pretty little village of Hurley. I had visited this area once before and was happy to return. By tiny village, I mean 1 little store... and two pubs, the Risin' Sun and Ye Olde Bell Inn. Not wanting to be disrespectful, I chose to visit both pubs! Ye Olde Bell Inn dates back to the 1100s. During WW II, American troops were stationed nearby. Winston Churchill and General Dwight Eisenhower met at this very inn. I felt an immense sense of history as I enjoyed this particular pub, with its low, dark beams, beautiful gardens and surroundings. It is a destination pub for weekend escapes for thousands each year. On this particular day, I was one of four enjoying its hospitality.
As I departed, I somehow missed the intended footpath, proceeded as if I knew what I was doing and never did find the appropriate footbridge. Before I knew it, I was hiking parallel to but not alongside the Thames. I walked passed through a kissing gate, a caravan park and farmers fields, always believing that the river was just out of view. Passing alongside farmers' fields, I eventually came to the village of Temple. Knowing that I was trudging along in the right direction I eventually passed
Bisham Abbey once again, only this time up close. It always amazes me to see these structures not only still standing but still being used as they were originally intended. Once past the Abbey, I knew that heading home was a matter of passing by the training centre, passing over the famous Marlow bridge and picking the correct pathway to get me back to my daughter's house.
That same footpath shows another possibility for another day... Marlow to Bourne End...a 6 mile walk which starts near the Two Brewers Pub (under renovation due to a fire), one of my favourite pubs! The Thames Path offers wonderful walks which are loaded with history...to follow that path is to pass by Quarry Wood, said to be Kenneth Grahame's inspiration for The Wild Wood in, "Wind in
the Willows".
Home tired and muddy from my excursion, I wonder if traipsing through NCC paths in the Greater Ottawa region will ever provide such historical significance... That's where I'll be wandering soon!
Friday, October 18, 2013
Monday, October 14, 2013
Once, The Musical
Every once in a while a special event takes place that requires writing about. This past Saturday, along with my daughter and her husband, Marion and I headed into London following a lazy Saturday in Marlow, except for our granddaughter Keira, whose life is presently a blend of school, extracurricular activities and birthday parties!
We left for London, by car just after 3:00 in the afternoon. Traffic around and in London is crazy at the best of times. From Marlow it's mostly six lanes all the way, past Heathrow, then in to the centre of the city. It gets very slow once into the suburbs. Because we were heading to the Phoenix Theatre, we needed to travel through the fashion district, past Harrods, St. James Palace, the home of Prince Charles and Camilla, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly to Charing Cross. Our parking was in an underground in the heart of Chinatown...more about that later, once I get over the shock. Coming to the surface we found ourselves immersed in a multicultural throng of thousands doing exactly what we were doing, seeing the sites, arriving in time for pre theatre dinner and grabbing a little time for some shopping. Once through Chinatown, we arrived at Picadilly Circus...how aptly named! In the midst of a collection of costumed revellers, we found The M & M Store, a destination stop apparently on any trip to this city...4 stories high, filled with thousands of shoppers and M&Ms of every imaginable colour and matching clothes, toys and games to go along with each colour. I can't even imagine what gross sales per day would be like!
After wondering for awhile and checking menus as we meandered, we settled on a tiny Italian restaurant near the theatre; the place was packed, the menu excellent and the wine list very adequate. Amidst the hustle and bustle we enjoyed great service and equally great food.
From there, directly to the theatre, The Phoenix...a neoclassical building, opened in 1930. It seats about 1050 people in a very steep three level arrangement. Our seats were in the third level very high, but also very close to the stage. Prior to the opening, the set, which is like an Irish pub is an open working bar. My son-in-law Mike and I could not resist the opportunity to head to the stage...where audience and cast/musicians mix in an informal warmup for the musical. Like a hootenanny from the
sixties, it's a magic start to the evening. As the warmup concludes, theatre goers head back to their
seats, as the real acting begins.
Based on a 2006 independent movie of the same name, Once tells the story of an Irish busker who meets a Czech girl. Both musicians, their love for each other grows through the songs they write for each other. On a minimalist set, the other actors who also double as the musicians sit on chairs on either side of the set when not actively participating.
The winner of Tonys for Best New Musical, Best Director, Best Set, suffice to say, I can't wait to travel to Toronto in the November/December time frame when this outstanding musical plays at the Royal Alex Theatre. It is a must see!
Part of the excitement of London theatre is the pouring of theatre goers onto the streets...as most shows end approximately at the same time. Literally thousands appear at the same time, making the walk back to that parking garage in Chinatown like moving on a conveyer belt...the charge for parking for the six hours that we were there, £36.00 ($61.20 Cdn). I'll never complain about $9.00 at the National Arts Centre again! Was it worth it? Every pence!
The drive home, through the bright lights of London, past the glamorous lights of Harrods made the night out magical!
In less than an hour, we were back in the peaceful town of Marlow!
We left for London, by car just after 3:00 in the afternoon. Traffic around and in London is crazy at the best of times. From Marlow it's mostly six lanes all the way, past Heathrow, then in to the centre of the city. It gets very slow once into the suburbs. Because we were heading to the Phoenix Theatre, we needed to travel through the fashion district, past Harrods, St. James Palace, the home of Prince Charles and Camilla, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly to Charing Cross. Our parking was in an underground in the heart of Chinatown...more about that later, once I get over the shock. Coming to the surface we found ourselves immersed in a multicultural throng of thousands doing exactly what we were doing, seeing the sites, arriving in time for pre theatre dinner and grabbing a little time for some shopping. Once through Chinatown, we arrived at Picadilly Circus...how aptly named! In the midst of a collection of costumed revellers, we found The M & M Store, a destination stop apparently on any trip to this city...4 stories high, filled with thousands of shoppers and M&Ms of every imaginable colour and matching clothes, toys and games to go along with each colour. I can't even imagine what gross sales per day would be like!
After wondering for awhile and checking menus as we meandered, we settled on a tiny Italian restaurant near the theatre; the place was packed, the menu excellent and the wine list very adequate. Amidst the hustle and bustle we enjoyed great service and equally great food.
From there, directly to the theatre, The Phoenix...a neoclassical building, opened in 1930. It seats about 1050 people in a very steep three level arrangement. Our seats were in the third level very high, but also very close to the stage. Prior to the opening, the set, which is like an Irish pub is an open working bar. My son-in-law Mike and I could not resist the opportunity to head to the stage...where audience and cast/musicians mix in an informal warmup for the musical. Like a hootenanny from the
sixties, it's a magic start to the evening. As the warmup concludes, theatre goers head back to their
seats, as the real acting begins.
Based on a 2006 independent movie of the same name, Once tells the story of an Irish busker who meets a Czech girl. Both musicians, their love for each other grows through the songs they write for each other. On a minimalist set, the other actors who also double as the musicians sit on chairs on either side of the set when not actively participating.
The winner of Tonys for Best New Musical, Best Director, Best Set, suffice to say, I can't wait to travel to Toronto in the November/December time frame when this outstanding musical plays at the Royal Alex Theatre. It is a must see!
Part of the excitement of London theatre is the pouring of theatre goers onto the streets...as most shows end approximately at the same time. Literally thousands appear at the same time, making the walk back to that parking garage in Chinatown like moving on a conveyer belt...the charge for parking for the six hours that we were there, £36.00 ($61.20 Cdn). I'll never complain about $9.00 at the National Arts Centre again! Was it worth it? Every pence!
The drive home, through the bright lights of London, past the glamorous lights of Harrods made the night out magical!
In less than an hour, we were back in the peaceful town of Marlow!
Friday, October 11, 2013
Marvellous Marlow
It is easy to avoid blogging when one is visiting family. There is so much to do, so much to catch up on, so much time to spend with grandchildren...
Since our arrival in Marlow, that's how much of our time has been spent. It has also been spent wandering Marlow, without doubt one of the loveliest locations on the River Thames. Situated between Windsor and Henley, this medieval town sets elegant Georgian buildings against the wonderful woodlands of Buckinghamshire's Chiltern Hills...one can literally expect to see Robin Hood and friends hiding behind trees as we travel the area. It is both prosperous and lively, it's streets filled with interesting shops, wine bars and pubs which add so much to Marlow's charm.
The town's main landmark is a beautiful suspension bridge, which spans the Thames, completed in 1832 to designs by William Tierney Clark, who also designed the bridge across the Danube near where our Viking Bragi was docked at the start if this journey.
The two main streets for shops are High Street and West Street. The finest building, just around the corner from our daughter's house is Marlow Place, built in 1721.
Through the 18th and early 19th centuries, Marlow emerged as a fashionable riverside resort attracting a variety of well known types, including Thomas Love Peacock, Jerome K Jerome and T S Eliot. I walk past the house daily, where the poet Shelley and his wife Mary lived. I am told that Mary finished her Gothic masterpiece, Frankenstein while living here in Marlow.
I get to walk these wonderful Streets on a daily basis as I accompany my 7 year old granddaughter to her school. It is just over a mile trek each way, so doing that twice a day is giving me a t least 4 miles a day before I head off to explore.
Riverside walks are a very common past time. In my next posting, I'll describe the wonderful walk from our grand children's favourite park, Higginson Park to Temple Lock. Part of the Thames Path National Trail, the path actually stretches from the Cotswalds to London.
Since our arrival in Marlow, that's how much of our time has been spent. It has also been spent wandering Marlow, without doubt one of the loveliest locations on the River Thames. Situated between Windsor and Henley, this medieval town sets elegant Georgian buildings against the wonderful woodlands of Buckinghamshire's Chiltern Hills...one can literally expect to see Robin Hood and friends hiding behind trees as we travel the area. It is both prosperous and lively, it's streets filled with interesting shops, wine bars and pubs which add so much to Marlow's charm.
The town's main landmark is a beautiful suspension bridge, which spans the Thames, completed in 1832 to designs by William Tierney Clark, who also designed the bridge across the Danube near where our Viking Bragi was docked at the start if this journey.
The two main streets for shops are High Street and West Street. The finest building, just around the corner from our daughter's house is Marlow Place, built in 1721.
Through the 18th and early 19th centuries, Marlow emerged as a fashionable riverside resort attracting a variety of well known types, including Thomas Love Peacock, Jerome K Jerome and T S Eliot. I walk past the house daily, where the poet Shelley and his wife Mary lived. I am told that Mary finished her Gothic masterpiece, Frankenstein while living here in Marlow.
I get to walk these wonderful Streets on a daily basis as I accompany my 7 year old granddaughter to her school. It is just over a mile trek each way, so doing that twice a day is giving me a t least 4 miles a day before I head off to explore.
Riverside walks are a very common past time. In my next posting, I'll describe the wonderful walk from our grand children's favourite park, Higginson Park to Temple Lock. Part of the Thames Path National Trail, the path actually stretches from the Cotswalds to London.
Monday, October 7, 2013
Coming to a Crashing Conclusion!
Cruising down the river, in the middle of the night, somewhere around 3:00 AM, sound asleep after an evening of learning about Cologne beers and the music of Cologne, our adventure came to a screeching, crashing halt. Either by an error in judgement or perhaps a brief moment of snoozing...the 2nd captain directed the bow of the beautiful Viling Bragi directly into an abutment of a very solid bridge...Being mid-ship, the damage in our suite was basically limited to the shocking disturbance, the haranguing sound of the breaking of glasses, the emptying of the refrigerator and the clearing of everything and anything that was on any of the counters. Others were not so lucky! In the dining room, over 50% of the china and glassware was ruined! Potted plants were smashed. Did I mention that once the Bragi slammed into the abutment, the ship following was unable to avoid our Bragi, so schmucked in the rear as well! When all was said and done and with a ten hour delay for police investigation, river authority inquiry, cruise company investigation and the determination as to whether the boat was seaworthy, permission was finally granted for us to proceed...with an escort out of Germany! While the captain spoke to us twice about the 'situation', we never did hear about the discipline for those in charge at the time of the collision. We did know that there was significant damage in the thousands of dollars damage...but we were able to continue!
Beyond the physical damage...the damage to Viking River Cruises reputation took a serious hit as well. For me, it was being told that because of the delays, the Bragi was heading directly to Amsterdam, meaning that our stop at Kinderdijk, the World Heritage site, renowned for its windmills would be missed...that was so disappointing. All my life, since reading about wooden shoes and windmills, that was my dream, to see those sites in person. While Viking staff apologized for the mishap, unfortunately, knowing what I missed takes away from all that we saw.
Putting that behind us, the rest of the cruise, arriving at 2:00 AM was anti-climactic, much of the onboard chatter more about the 'event' rather than the smooth sailing into Amsterdam, along the Rhine and the Utrecht Canal.
Disembarking was a smooth operation. We were up at 3:30 AM, packed, showered, bags in he hall by 5:00 AM, breakfast and on the bus by 5:45...then off to Amsterdam Airport. Check-in, clearing
Customs, was like clockwork. With two hours to spare, sleep seemed to be the only appropriate thing to do.
Before we knew it, it was boarding time, first a flight to Frankfurt, and with little time to spare, a quick farewell to our travel partners, Garnet & Shirley, Pam & Jim...as we rushed to catch a flight to London-Heathrow to visit our daughter, her husband and two delightful grandchildren.
Finishing the first leg of our one month journey on Marion's birthday, heading to see our family in England, was just too good to be true.
Despite our final day experience, travelling with Garnet & Shirley and Pam & Jim enriched our experience four fold! Each evening we joined together at the dining room table, laughed and reflected on the day and regularly drank toasts to the moment...and there were so many moments to celebrate! All we can hope is that another opportunity comes along...
And now, time to focus on the grandchildren !
Beyond the physical damage...the damage to Viking River Cruises reputation took a serious hit as well. For me, it was being told that because of the delays, the Bragi was heading directly to Amsterdam, meaning that our stop at Kinderdijk, the World Heritage site, renowned for its windmills would be missed...that was so disappointing. All my life, since reading about wooden shoes and windmills, that was my dream, to see those sites in person. While Viking staff apologized for the mishap, unfortunately, knowing what I missed takes away from all that we saw.
Putting that behind us, the rest of the cruise, arriving at 2:00 AM was anti-climactic, much of the onboard chatter more about the 'event' rather than the smooth sailing into Amsterdam, along the Rhine and the Utrecht Canal.
Disembarking was a smooth operation. We were up at 3:30 AM, packed, showered, bags in he hall by 5:00 AM, breakfast and on the bus by 5:45...then off to Amsterdam Airport. Check-in, clearing
Customs, was like clockwork. With two hours to spare, sleep seemed to be the only appropriate thing to do.
Before we knew it, it was boarding time, first a flight to Frankfurt, and with little time to spare, a quick farewell to our travel partners, Garnet & Shirley, Pam & Jim...as we rushed to catch a flight to London-Heathrow to visit our daughter, her husband and two delightful grandchildren.
Finishing the first leg of our one month journey on Marion's birthday, heading to see our family in England, was just too good to be true.
Despite our final day experience, travelling with Garnet & Shirley and Pam & Jim enriched our experience four fold! Each evening we joined together at the dining room table, laughed and reflected on the day and regularly drank toasts to the moment...and there were so many moments to celebrate! All we can hope is that another opportunity comes along...
And now, time to focus on the grandchildren !
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Cosmopolitan Cologne
It was an early morning into Cologne. For the first time on this journey, our arrival was overcast and rainy. As has been the practice, we were met by a local guide who welcomed us enthusiastically to 'her' city! Our tour led us past several 'brauhaus's' along the way. Luckily, I have a good sense of direction...found them all later in the afternoon. Pictures don't suffice for this structure, The Dom , twin spires that require 521 steps just to climb to the base of the spire, a cathedral that took 600 years to complete; we were amongst the regular 30,000 visitors per day. Dark, no heat, massive stained glass windows, red-robed members of the Swiss Guard, overwhelming to say the least. While we spent approximately 90 minutes at the cathedral, one could literally spend days there.
Our afternoon consisted of free time touring through a massive shopping mall area. My son will appreciate that standing opposite each other were two stores...SportsCheck and Sposstadt Sports. There was one sports store that specialized Nordic walking attire and poles.
Onboard the Bragi for the evening, yet another enjoyable dinner followed by a concert, "Music of Cologne".
It was just prior to 3:00AM when the Bragi struck the bridge pylon...crushed the pylon, throwing everything on board,"ass over tea kettle", as we would say in Kanata. The biggest hit was taken by the dishes...over 50% were smashed! The result was a ten hour delay whilst local officials, police and river authorities completed their respective investigations. The captain called us all together to explain what had occurred and the subsequent reactions. The biggest disappointment for me was that because of the occurrence, Kinderdijk would be dropped from the itinerary...no World Heritage site for us today...all my life I've wanted to see real windmills!
As we begin the final hours together aboard the Bragi, there is much to do in order to disembark. Settling of accounts, packing for the next phase. We will leave the boat in Amsterdam tomorrow morning at 5:45...heading to the airport for flights to Frankfurt, then on to Marlow, England.
Travelling with our friends the Barbers and Coulas's has been such a wonderful experience. I can't wait to share the thousands of photos we've accumulated...once back in Canada!
Our afternoon consisted of free time touring through a massive shopping mall area. My son will appreciate that standing opposite each other were two stores...SportsCheck and Sposstadt Sports. There was one sports store that specialized Nordic walking attire and poles.
Onboard the Bragi for the evening, yet another enjoyable dinner followed by a concert, "Music of Cologne".
It was just prior to 3:00AM when the Bragi struck the bridge pylon...crushed the pylon, throwing everything on board,"ass over tea kettle", as we would say in Kanata. The biggest hit was taken by the dishes...over 50% were smashed! The result was a ten hour delay whilst local officials, police and river authorities completed their respective investigations. The captain called us all together to explain what had occurred and the subsequent reactions. The biggest disappointment for me was that because of the occurrence, Kinderdijk would be dropped from the itinerary...no World Heritage site for us today...all my life I've wanted to see real windmills!
As we begin the final hours together aboard the Bragi, there is much to do in order to disembark. Settling of accounts, packing for the next phase. We will leave the boat in Amsterdam tomorrow morning at 5:45...heading to the airport for flights to Frankfurt, then on to Marlow, England.
Travelling with our friends the Barbers and Coulas's has been such a wonderful experience. I can't wait to share the thousands of photos we've accumulated...once back in Canada!
Thursday, October 3, 2013
A Rhine Valley Day of Castles!
Early today we passed through Frankfurt with nary a mention. What caught our attention was the 6:30 am sounds of aircraft landing and departing...literally the first sounds like that in over 12 days! All the hustle and bustle of the big city was a mere point of the passing morning. Soon we arrived into a valley of castles and fortresses towering high above the river...that was the scene for many hours...castle after castle. The middle Rhine is a river valley with tall cliffs, a castle perched literally on every hilltop, with quaint villages lining the river banks. Loreli is but one example of the myths and legends that have passed from generation to generation. It is a very rocky, dangerous portion of the river, where it is said many a sailor lost his boat, paying too much attention to the beautiful Loreli. Prior to reaching today's destination, destination Koblenz, we passed by Bingen and Rudesheim, where steep vineyards that produce famous Rhine wines. Some 29 years ago, Marion and I experienced a wonderful tour of this area with our former Director of Education, Stan Berry. We cruised then as we are doing later tonight to Cologne. This is an amazing region, one known for its wealth of cultural influence and religious buildings. The Rhine as a road of cultural development is clear today as it was hundreds of years ago, the cargo boats plying this river even today is incredible. For this, the Middle Rhine Valley was designated a World Heritage Site in 2002.
Our mid afternoon tour was to visit Marksburg Castle, one which has maintained all of its original construction. It stands today as the best-preserved castle on the river. It has stood the est of over 800 years without being significantly blemished... The reason is its location. It stands high atop a steep, isolated hill on a bend in the river. The terrain around it would discourage anyone from attempting an attack. After our adventurous climb, the only thing that revived us was a cold beer, once safely back on the Bragi. This is a castle that one would have to see and experience to believe.
Our night stop is in the beautiful town of Koblenz, another Rhine town that dates back to the Romans, who established it as a military stronghold around 10BC. At he point at which the Rhine and Mozelle Rivers meet is a monstrous statue of Kaiser Wilhelm. Across from where we are docked stands a mighty fortress that towers over Koblenz, called Festung Ehrenbreitstein. A visit to that location will have to be on anther visit to the region.
Docked here until 4:00 AM, our next port of call along the Rhine will be one of my favorite German cities...Cologne. That's tomorrow's blog!
Our mid afternoon tour was to visit Marksburg Castle, one which has maintained all of its original construction. It stands today as the best-preserved castle on the river. It has stood the est of over 800 years without being significantly blemished... The reason is its location. It stands high atop a steep, isolated hill on a bend in the river. The terrain around it would discourage anyone from attempting an attack. After our adventurous climb, the only thing that revived us was a cold beer, once safely back on the Bragi. This is a castle that one would have to see and experience to believe.
Our night stop is in the beautiful town of Koblenz, another Rhine town that dates back to the Romans, who established it as a military stronghold around 10BC. At he point at which the Rhine and Mozelle Rivers meet is a monstrous statue of Kaiser Wilhelm. Across from where we are docked stands a mighty fortress that towers over Koblenz, called Festung Ehrenbreitstein. A visit to that location will have to be on anther visit to the region.
Docked here until 4:00 AM, our next port of call along the Rhine will be one of my favorite German cities...Cologne. That's tomorrow's blog!
Wednesday, October 2, 2013
Wertheim
Our stop in Wertheim was magical, an easy walking tour through a relatively small medieval town, followed by a relaxing cruise filled with picturesque camera shots! I think this afternoon was to prepare us what's to come. Wertheim is strategically located at the confluence of the Main and Tauber Rivers, upstream from where the Main meets the Rhine. It is known for its glassworks, wine and castle ruins that are amongst the largest in Germany.
The Wetheim Castle was built in the 12th century, expanded during the 15th - 17th and destroyed during the Thirty Years' War in 1634. The main landmark of the town, it overlooks narrow streets filled with half-timbered houses and the Gothic architecture of the church and abbey.
While the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy is famous, what exists here in Wertheim, the Pointed Tower built in the 13th century as a lookout, also has a severe lean to it also. It leans because of 800 years of flooding. Many of the town's structures include markers showing high water marks through the centuries. I continue to be amazed at the resilience of those living along the rivers of Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Austria, and Germany, who clean up from floods twice in the spring and twice in the autumn.
For those into further research, sightings along the way today have included Stratprozelten, a little town in the narrow valley of the Main between Miltenberg and Wertheim and it's castle Henneburg, Freudenberg with its castle towering over the town, Miltenberg, valued by the Romans for its strategic importance along the Main, Grossenbach, famous for its monastic beer brewing... So much to enjoy...all views along the river!
Out travels along the rivers have until today been mostly through the state of Bavaria with its natural surroundings, a wealth of culture... No wonder it is one of Germany's most popular holiday regions. I think that one of the most surprising elements has been the number of recreational vehicles, both trailers and motor homes that have been parked along the rivers and canals. RV parks are everywhere and still busy into the month of October. Many are adjacent to the numerous locks through which we pass. Our riverboat is 425 feet long and in most locks there is apace for at least two boats end to end. The locks are enormous!
Tomorrow...through the castle region from Koblenz to Cologne. The camera and the iPad are already both on charge!
The Wetheim Castle was built in the 12th century, expanded during the 15th - 17th and destroyed during the Thirty Years' War in 1634. The main landmark of the town, it overlooks narrow streets filled with half-timbered houses and the Gothic architecture of the church and abbey.
While the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy is famous, what exists here in Wertheim, the Pointed Tower built in the 13th century as a lookout, also has a severe lean to it also. It leans because of 800 years of flooding. Many of the town's structures include markers showing high water marks through the centuries. I continue to be amazed at the resilience of those living along the rivers of Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Austria, and Germany, who clean up from floods twice in the spring and twice in the autumn.
For those into further research, sightings along the way today have included Stratprozelten, a little town in the narrow valley of the Main between Miltenberg and Wertheim and it's castle Henneburg, Freudenberg with its castle towering over the town, Miltenberg, valued by the Romans for its strategic importance along the Main, Grossenbach, famous for its monastic beer brewing... So much to enjoy...all views along the river!
Out travels along the rivers have until today been mostly through the state of Bavaria with its natural surroundings, a wealth of culture... No wonder it is one of Germany's most popular holiday regions. I think that one of the most surprising elements has been the number of recreational vehicles, both trailers and motor homes that have been parked along the rivers and canals. RV parks are everywhere and still busy into the month of October. Many are adjacent to the numerous locks through which we pass. Our riverboat is 425 feet long and in most locks there is apace for at least two boats end to end. The locks are enormous!
Tomorrow...through the castle region from Koblenz to Cologne. The camera and the iPad are already both on charge!
Wurzburg & Rothenburg
The days are starting to run together. On this particular day, the boys, Garnet, Jim and I opted to do a little cross-country tour by bus to Rothenburg, while the girls, Shirley, Pam and Marion opted to spend more time in Wurzburg touring, dining and shopping. There is so much to see and do!
First, the Rothenburg bus trip; departing the city of Wurzburg, with a guide, we travelled about 75 minutes,along the "Romantic Road". Described as the 'grandfather' of Germany's scenic routes, we drove through historic towns with striking buildings and historical sites. We traveled through a very rich agricultural region. Large crops of corn and sugar beet predominated the country-side. Farms were very large and extremely tidy. In this part of the country, dairy cattle were stabled year round. Milk was shipped to a huge central processing plant owned by the French company, Danone, a name well known in Canada also. All farm houses and barns were in a community. No houses were located on the actual farms. We saw the latest equipment harvesting sugar beets, the principle source of sugar for Germany. Arriving in the best-preserved medieval city of Rothenburg, we entered through an arch in the outer city wall, a 1 1/2 city wall that encircles the city. Inside, a city of wonderful architectural display from the Middle Ages. The wall connects five medieval gates, complete with guard towers that date from the 13th - 16th centuries. In the centre of the town, the Rothenburg Town Hall Tower, from which fabulous views of Rothenburg and the surrounding countryside can be seen. The entire town is a museum filled with cobblestone streets, fountains, nada mix of gothic, renaissance and baroque houses and stores. Following our guided tour, a traditional German lunch was served... Cream of potato soup, bratwurst, sauerkraut and mashed potato. Dessert was the ever popular apple strudel...did I mention beer? I must admit that I missed a lot of the countryside on the return trip to Wurzburg ... It seemed like the perfect time to snooze!
Meanwhile, back in Wurzburg, the girls had already experienced what we were soon to see...the Wurzburg Residenz Palace. it's difficult to comprehend the opulence and splendour of such a place! The resident prince-bishops wielded enormous power and wealth, and the city of Wurzburg was the epitome of that wealth. Built in the mid 1750s, it boasts a grand staircase with an unsupported vaulted ceiling which features the largest ceiling fresco in the world...so glorious, along with rooms so special one must check all knapsacks prior to entry. It is also not possible to use a camera while inside the palace...that was disappointing for sure but did allow for one to concentrate completely on what was to be seen.
So, a hectic day of walking and viewing and recording all that was to be taken in!
First, the Rothenburg bus trip; departing the city of Wurzburg, with a guide, we travelled about 75 minutes,along the "Romantic Road". Described as the 'grandfather' of Germany's scenic routes, we drove through historic towns with striking buildings and historical sites. We traveled through a very rich agricultural region. Large crops of corn and sugar beet predominated the country-side. Farms were very large and extremely tidy. In this part of the country, dairy cattle were stabled year round. Milk was shipped to a huge central processing plant owned by the French company, Danone, a name well known in Canada also. All farm houses and barns were in a community. No houses were located on the actual farms. We saw the latest equipment harvesting sugar beets, the principle source of sugar for Germany. Arriving in the best-preserved medieval city of Rothenburg, we entered through an arch in the outer city wall, a 1 1/2 city wall that encircles the city. Inside, a city of wonderful architectural display from the Middle Ages. The wall connects five medieval gates, complete with guard towers that date from the 13th - 16th centuries. In the centre of the town, the Rothenburg Town Hall Tower, from which fabulous views of Rothenburg and the surrounding countryside can be seen. The entire town is a museum filled with cobblestone streets, fountains, nada mix of gothic, renaissance and baroque houses and stores. Following our guided tour, a traditional German lunch was served... Cream of potato soup, bratwurst, sauerkraut and mashed potato. Dessert was the ever popular apple strudel...did I mention beer? I must admit that I missed a lot of the countryside on the return trip to Wurzburg ... It seemed like the perfect time to snooze!
Meanwhile, back in Wurzburg, the girls had already experienced what we were soon to see...the Wurzburg Residenz Palace. it's difficult to comprehend the opulence and splendour of such a place! The resident prince-bishops wielded enormous power and wealth, and the city of Wurzburg was the epitome of that wealth. Built in the mid 1750s, it boasts a grand staircase with an unsupported vaulted ceiling which features the largest ceiling fresco in the world...so glorious, along with rooms so special one must check all knapsacks prior to entry. It is also not possible to use a camera while inside the palace...that was disappointing for sure but did allow for one to concentrate completely on what was to be seen.
So, a hectic day of walking and viewing and recording all that was to be taken in!
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